Maurice Fourastier

Conquérant de l’Oisans sauvage: Maurice Fourastier

Ce nom figure dans plusieurs itinéraires de grandes envergures, face nord de la Meije, du Vallon des Etages, de l’Etret, du Pelvoux, de l’Ailefroide, du Râteau, …

Né en Algérie en 1901, c’est un personnage brillant dès sa jeunesse. Il est à la fois doué pour le sport avec de fortes capacités athlétiques et pour les études, il est directeur d’école à 23 ans.

En été 1931, il débarque à Vénosc en parfait touriste avec toute sa famille et côtoie les alpinistes locaux qui lui donnent sans doute cette envie de conquérir les cimes (ce n’est cependant pas un novice, il a déjà réalisé des ascensions dans les Pyrénées). Coutumier de l’Oisans dès l’année suivante, il réalise plusieurs courses classiques. Sa progression va être extrêmement rapide et il va effectuer entre 1933 et 1938 bon nombre de premières et pas des moindres.

Dès 1933, c’est en face nord de la Meije qu’il officie avec Casimir Rodier en réalisant la première ascension par le couloir en Z. Itinéraire mixte très difficile de 750 m ou se mêle rocher et glace. Même si cette voie s’échappe de la face nord en sortant à la Brèche du glacier Carré, elle reste une ligne évidente qui utilise au mieux le terrain. Il faudra attendre 1947 pour que soit réalisé la sortie directe du Z puis 1962 pour la directe à la Meije.

Jusqu’en  1939, il va explorer de nombreux secteurs du massif avec de très belles réussites.

Arête ouest des Fétoules en 1934 avec Henry Le Breton. Cette même année, il rate avec le même compagnon de cordée la directe sud au Grand Pic de la Meije et ce pour une dispute ridicule qui les stoppe à proximité des vires du glacier Carré. Il faut dire que le personnage est haut en couleur avec un caractère affirmé, expansif, le verbe sonore, c’est le chef …

En 1935, face nord de la pointe du Vallon des Etages réalisée avec Maurice Laloue et H. Le Breton puis le couloir nord-est de l’Etret avec H. Le Breton et Alexandre Manhès. Deux itinéraires très difficiles tracés sur des parois austères et situés dans le sauvage Vallon des Etages.

Trois grandes premières en 1936 avec la découverte du glacier noir et de ces versants nord. Eperon nord-ouest du Pic du Coup de Sabre le 30 juillet avec H. Le Breton, arête nord de la Pointe Puiseux avec A. Manhès en deux jours les 22 et 23 août et enfin face nord de l’Ailefroide Centrale le 1er septembre avec H. Le Breton et A. Manhès. Premier itinéraire ouvert dans le versant du glacier noir de l’Ailefroide. Ce sommet porte aujourd’hui le nom de pointe Fourastier.

En 1937, face nord de l’Aiguille du Plat de la Selle et arête ouest-nord-ouest du Pic Maître. Cette même année, il rencontre Andéol Madier de Champvermeil et réalise début septembre la directe en face sud de la Dibona.

L’année suivante, encore une première à l’arête ouest des Aigles puis il réalise avec A. Madier une course majeure dans la sévère face nord du Râteau les 18 et 19 août 1938. Il faut noter que les deux compères avaient échoués à 150 mètres du sommet vingt jours auparavant, signe de la force de ces hommes capables de s’aventurer dans ces terribles faces nord qui nécessitent non seulement d’être un excellent alpiniste capable d’évoluer sur des terrains glacés et sur rocher délité mais aussi une volonté à toute épreuve !

On peut rajouter le parcours des arêtes de la Muzelle, une nord-ouest à l’Olan et aussi des excursions dans le massif du Mont Blanc avec la face nord des Grandes Jorasses, la face nord des Droites, …

En 1939, la guerre et la mort de son camarade A. Madier à la Dibona mettent fin au projet d’expédition dans l’Himalaya qui aurait été conduite par Maurice Fourastier.

Comme beaucoup d’homme, il part au front. Démobilisé en 1940, il explore en tous sens le massif de Djurdjura en Algérie, fait nombre de premières, participe à la construction de refuges, trace des sentiers, crée des écoles d’escalade, …

1942, les troupes alliées débarquent en Algérie. Il crée avec le Général de Montsabert  les « Corps Francs d’Afrique ». Capitaine d’une compagnie de commandos de choc, il se distingue avec ses hommes en Tunisie en 43 et est cité plusieurs fois à l’ordre de l’Armée. Il débarque en Italie fin 43. Début 44, alors qu’il conduit son détachement, il est salement touché à la jambe et échappera de peu à l’amputation. A force de courage et de volonté, il remarche avec des béquilles en 1947 et miracle, en 1951, il reprend le piolet. La haute montagne ne lui permet plus l’exploit mais il réalise néanmoins encore une première à l’arête sud de la Pointe Brevoort en 1954 avec Paul Keller.

Parallèlement, il réalise un grand projet qui le tient à cœur avec la création d’une école technique professionnelle à Notre Dame d’Afrique sur les hauteurs d’Alger.

Le 19 octobre 1961, l’année de sa retraite, il parcourt avec son ami Henry Le Breton les arêtes de St Robert dans les Alpes Maritimes. On les retrouve tous les deux encordées, corps brisées au pied de la paroi. Ils seront ensevelis ensemble au cimetière de St Martin de Vésubie.

Encore aujourd’hui, ses ouvertures forcent le respect par le courage qu’il fallait pour partir à la conquête de ces faces austères. Un homme d’exception passionné d’Oisans sauvage …

Sources :
www.piedsnoirs-aujourd’hui.com
Oisans nouveau, Oisans sauvage livre ouest de JM. Cambon
Les 100 plus belles du massif des Ecrins de G. Rebuffat

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