Du parc national de la Bérarde au parc national des Ecrins
Avant le développement de l’alpinisme et de la géographie (carte de Cassini), le massif était très mal connu. En raison de sa taille et de sa complexité, les autochtones étaient incapables de se le représenter dans toute son étendue et ne nommaient que les cols, sommets, vallons, qui présentaient un intérêt pour les déplacements, les usages, la chasse. Tous les sommets n’en portaient pas. A la fin du XIXe siècle, ces montagnes étaient connues sous divers noms, tels que massif de l’Oisans, de la Meije, du Haut Dauphiné, du Pelvoux.
Ce XIXe siècle est placé sous le signe des bouleversements. Urbanisation galopante, révolution industrielle, développement économique, amélioration des axes de transport, montée de la bourgeoisie, … favorisent une meilleure circulation des idées et les grands débats comme celui de la protection de la nature commence à germer.
Au milieu de ce XIXe siècle, les sociétés montagnardes connaissent un maximum de population et sont confrontées à une crise démographique, économique et culturelle dont elles sortiront profondément remaniées.
La dégradation physique des montagnes, liée à une mauvaise exploitation des forêts, à des problèmes de surpâturage entraîne de nombreuses catastrophes durant la seconde moitié de ce siècle. On tient cette érosion pour responsable des phénomènes de torrentialité déjà connu des spécialistes, mais totalement ignorés du grand public. Ils sont à l’origine de graves inondations dans les plaines. Elles sont très fréquentes et ravagent la plaine de Bourg d’Oisans, et parfois même la vallée en aval jusqu’à Grenoble. Les nombreuses industries qui s’installent peu à peu dans la basse vallée de la romanche, sont elles aussi directement concernées par ces catastrophes à répétitions. Tout ce monde milite donc pour que soit mis un terme aux caprices des torrents situés en amont, notamment celui du Vénéon. Parallèlement, les forestiers demandent des moyens d’intervention accrus pour procéder à des reboisements et lutter contre le surpâturage.
La seconde moitié de ce XIXe siècle est aussi marqué par l’essor de l’alpinisme. Jusqu’alors activité marginale et confidentielle, essentiellement pratiquée par de riches anglais, l’alpinisme est découvert par les classes aisées de la France en train de s’industrialiser. De l’exploitation de l’espace montagnard à sa prise de possession matériel et symbolique, puis un souci de préserver le caractère exceptionnel de ce milieu, il n’y a que quelques pas qui seront vite franchis. Ainsi vont être crée trois grandes associations qui vont militer dans ce sens. Le CAF (Club Alpin Français) en 1874 avec pour objectif de faire connaître les montagnes, la STD (Société des Touristes Dauphinois) en 1875 aux ambitions plus local est limitée aux Alpes Dauphinoises, puis le TCF (Touring-Club de France) en 1890 qui à une ambition nationale de développement du tourisme, mais sera amené à s’intéresser aussi à la sauvegarde des montagnes.
Enfin cette période est marquée par la montée d’un sentiment écologique, surtout inspiré par des considérations d’ordre esthétique. Des esprits critiques commencent à s’insurger contre certains excès du développement et du progrès, notamment les équipements hydro-électriques, et des voix s’élèvent pour réclamer des mesures de protection des beautés de la nature et des paysages.
Ces trois courants de pensée vont évoluer de manière interdépendante. Ils se confortent mutuellement, convergent parfois. Il existe des liens idéologiques, institutionnels ou personnels entre les différents acteurs. Ils se retrouvent bien souvent au sein d’associations qui fonctionnent comme autant de groupe de pression. Même si l’idée reste floue et parfois ambigüe, on commence à militer en faveur de la protection de la montagne.
Le début du XXe siècle va concrétiser ce changement. Jusqu’en 1905, les espaces pastorales continuent à être surexploités, voire étendus sur certaines communes, notamment celle de St Christophe en Oisans, pour accroitre les rentrées financières. En 1906, une longue période de sécheresse va stopper cette surexploitation des pâturages. L’année suivante, les transhumants se détournent des pâturages du Vénéon, ce qui oblige la commune à se tourner vers le préfet pour demander de l’aide, et va susciter alors une véritable coalition des pouvoirs publics et associatifs, pour convaincre la municipalité aux abois de louer à l’état, pour une période de 5 ans son territoire pastoral afin d’en assurer la restauration. Parmi les adjudicataires, on retrouve l’état mais aussi bon nombre d’acteurs qui, dès la fin du XIXe siècle avaient sollicité l’intervention de l’autorité pour endiguer les excès de torrentialité dans les vallées du Vénéon et de la Romanche.
Jusqu’alors, tout ce qui s’est passé dans la vallée du Vénéon n’a pas de lien direct avec les grands mouvements d’idée autour de la protection de la nature. Il s’agit de régler, dans l’intérêt des populations locales, une mauvaise gestion de l’espace pastoral. A aucun moment n’est prononcé le terme de parc national. Tout va basculer avec l’arrivée d’un nouveau responsable à la tête de la conservation des Eaux et Forêts de Grenoble. Avec lui, le problème de la restauration pastorale pour endiguer les phénomènes de torrentialité prend une autre tournure. De local, il devient national. Dès lors, il va être explicitement question de la création d’un parc national, et la vallée de la Bérarde devient un providentiel terrain d’application des théories qui foisonnent en ce début de siècle (reboisement, protection des forêts, aménagement des montagnes, …). Pour concrétiser ce projet, il va faire en sorte que l’état devienne propriétaire des terrains, chose qui sera réalisé en 1912.
L’état est désormais propriétaire de 4000 hectares de montagne sur les hauteurs de St Christophe en Oisans, et l’histoire du parc peut commencer. Ainsi en 1913, est créé le parc national de la Bérarde sur le modèle de la réserve suisse de l’Engadine, fondée quatre ans plus tôt. Il s’agit de défendre la montagne contre l’envahissement des pâturages, qui entraine érosion, déboisement et désordre torrentiel. L’appel aux souscriptions pour la gestion du parc est à peine lancé, qu’éclate la première guerre mondiale et plus rien ne se passe durant cinq ans.
Ce n’est qu’à partir de 1919 que l’on reparle du parc. Mais les temps et les hommes ont changés, et l’engouement national n’est plus aussi fort. L’association des parcs forestiers est dissoute en 1922, et c’est l’administration des Eaux et Forêts qui récupère le parc, considéré comme une coquille vide avec des terrains incultes et inexploitables. Bien que ne sachant pas trop commet gérer cette nouvelle chose dont ils ont hérités, les forestiers ne restent pas inactifs. Ils essayent de donner un contenu au parc mais se heurtent à une série de limites juridiques, financières et humaines. Il faut attendre 1923 et la volonté des forestiers pour voir s’accroître l’emprise territoriale du parc, avec l’achat de 6000 hectares sur la commune du Pelvoux. L’année suivante, c’est près de 3000 hectares qui sont acquis dans le Valgaudemar.
A la fin des années 1930, le parc couvre une superficie d’environ 13000 hectares, et s’appelle désormais parc national du Pelvoux. Côté surveillance, introduction d’espèces végétales ou animales, peu de choses à noter sur cette période sans doute par manque de moyen. C’est dans le domaine de l’aménagement que l’action du parc est la plus visible. Aménagement de sentiers, construction de refuges, construction de la route jusqu’à la Bérarde, opération débutée en 1912 mais stoppé par la guerre et qui se terminera en 1927 ; et enfin la route d’Ailefroide au pré de Madame Carle en 1937 et 1938. En 1933, on parle d’un projet d’aménagement de téléphérique allant de la Grave au sommet de la Meije, projet qui va mobiliser l’opinion et raviver la nécessité de protection de la nature. Ce projet sera abandonné et il permettra de classer la Meije et d’autres sites, le lac du Lauvitel, le village de la Bérarde, le plan du Carrelet et cinq refuges en zone protégée.
Puis arrive la seconde guerre mondiale, et de nouveau le parc reste en sommeil. La période 1945 à 1960 est pour le parc national du Pelvoux celle du doute et du déclin. Les institutions centrales semblent se désintéresser de cette zone, et aucune politique de gestion cohérente de l’ensemble ne se dessine. Encore une fois, le parc vivote notamment grâce aux forestiers. Fin 1962, le parc a même perdu son statut de parc national, on utilise officiellement le terme parc domanial du Pelvoux. Depuis 1957, les regards et les intérêts se portent sur la création du parc national de la Vanoise, qui mobilise toutes les attentions, parc qui voit le jour en 1963.
Cette même année, le CAF publie un article qui relance le projet du parc du Haut Dauphiné. A l’époque, c’est le début de l’âge d’or de l’aménagement du territoire. La France est en pleine mutation économique et démographique, et les Alpes connaissent une véritable explosion touristique. On découvre l’importance des sports de nature. Tous ces éléments constituent un contexte très favorable à la relance du projet, mais les administrations concernées sont cette fois absorbées par la création du parc national des Pyrénées.
On reparle du parc en 1969, de nouveau grâce au CAF, qui publie un nouvel article pour la création du parc national des Ecrins, et cette fois le pouvoir public semble s’y intéresser. L’idée fait son chemin et en 1970, un rapport favorable est soumis aux institutions en même temps que le projet du parc national du Mercantour. Trois années sont encore nécessaires pour consulter, négocier, redéfinir les limites et enfin aboutir le 27 mars 1973 à la création officielle du parc national des Ecrins. C’est le cinquième parc national.
Soixante ans après le parc national de la Bérarde, le parc national des Ecrins est enfin crée. Commence alors une nouvelle aventure …
Aujourd’hui, le territoire du parc national des Ecrins (91800 hectares), s’étend entre les villes de Gap, Briançon et Grenoble. Il est délimité par les vallées de la Romanche, la Guisane, la Durance et le Drac. Six grandes vallées structurent le massif : Le Vénéon, la Vallouise, le Champsaur, le Valgaudemar et le Valbonnais.
Il compte une centaine de sommets à plus de 3 000 mètres et une quarantaine de glaciers (couvrant environ 17 000 hectares).Il possède plus de 700 km de sentiers entretenus et balisés, et une trentaine de refuges de montagnes. Deux sommets dépassent les 4000m (Barre des Ecrins (4102m) et Dôme de neige des Ecrins (4015m)), et quatre les 3900m (Meije 3983m, Ailefroide 3954m, Pelvoux 3946m, Pic sans nom 3913m). Le Parc possède aussi un grand nombre de lacs spectaculaires dont le Lauvitel, qui est une réserve intégrale, et affiche une profondeur de 60m pour 30 hectares de superficie.
Plus de 270 espèces animales (210 espèces d’oiseaux, dont 40 couples d’aigles royaux ; 64 espèces de mammifères, dont 15000 chamois et 600 bouquetins) et plus de 1800 espèces de fleurs, plantes (dont 216 répertoriées comme rares ou menacées et 35 endémiques) vivent dans ce massif.
Mais ce parc national des Ecrins, reste dans le cœur de beaucoup d’entre nous l’Oisans sauvage. Il renferme encore de profondes vallées sans refuge, des sommets isolés sans parasite sonore ou visuel de la civilisation, de longues marches propices à pénétrer cette nature, pour peu qu’on s’éloigne des sentiers battus …
Sources :
Chronique d’un parc oublié de JP. Zuanon
http://www.ecrins-parcnational.fr
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