Maurice Fourastier

Conquérant de l’Oisans sauvage: Maurice Fourastier

Ce nom figure dans plusieurs itinéraires de grandes envergures, face nord de la Meije, du Vallon des Etages, de l’Etret, du Pelvoux, de l’Ailefroide, du Râteau, …

Né en Algérie en 1901, c’est un personnage brillant dès sa jeunesse. Il est à la fois doué pour le sport avec de fortes capacités athlétiques et pour les études, il est directeur d’école à 23 ans.

En été 1931, il débarque à Vénosc en parfait touriste avec toute sa famille et côtoie les alpinistes locaux qui lui donnent sans doute cette envie de conquérir les cimes (ce n’est cependant pas un novice, il a déjà réalisé des ascensions dans les Pyrénées). Coutumier de l’Oisans dès l’année suivante, il réalise plusieurs courses classiques. Sa progression va être extrêmement rapide et il va effectuer entre 1933 et 1938 bon nombre de premières et pas des moindres.

Dès 1933, c’est en face nord de la Meije qu’il officie avec Casimir Rodier en réalisant la première ascension par le couloir en Z. Itinéraire mixte très difficile de 750 m ou se mêle rocher et glace. Même si cette voie s’échappe de la face nord en sortant à la Brèche du glacier Carré, elle reste une ligne évidente qui utilise au mieux le terrain. Il faudra attendre 1947 pour que soit réalisé la sortie directe du Z puis 1962 pour la directe à la Meije.

Jusqu’en  1939, il va explorer de nombreux secteurs du massif avec de très belles réussites.

Arête ouest des Fétoules en 1934 avec Henry Le Breton. Cette même année, il rate avec le même compagnon de cordée la directe sud au Grand Pic de la Meije et ce pour une dispute ridicule qui les stoppe à proximité des vires du glacier Carré. Il faut dire que le personnage est haut en couleur avec un caractère affirmé, expansif, le verbe sonore, c’est le chef …

En 1935, face nord de la pointe du Vallon des Etages réalisée avec Maurice Laloue et H. Le Breton puis le couloir nord-est de l’Etret avec H. Le Breton et Alexandre Manhès. Deux itinéraires très difficiles tracés sur des parois austères et situés dans le sauvage Vallon des Etages.

Trois grandes premières en 1936 avec la découverte du glacier noir et de ces versants nord. Eperon nord-ouest du Pic du Coup de Sabre le 30 juillet avec H. Le Breton, arête nord de la Pointe Puiseux avec A. Manhès en deux jours les 22 et 23 août et enfin face nord de l’Ailefroide Centrale le 1er septembre avec H. Le Breton et A. Manhès. Premier itinéraire ouvert dans le versant du glacier noir de l’Ailefroide. Ce sommet porte aujourd’hui le nom de pointe Fourastier.

En 1937, face nord de l’Aiguille du Plat de la Selle et arête ouest-nord-ouest du Pic Maître. Cette même année, il rencontre Andéol Madier de Champvermeil et réalise début septembre la directe en face sud de la Dibona.

L’année suivante, encore une première à l’arête ouest des Aigles puis il réalise avec A. Madier une course majeure dans la sévère face nord du Râteau les 18 et 19 août 1938. Il faut noter que les deux compères avaient échoués à 150 mètres du sommet vingt jours auparavant, signe de la force de ces hommes capables de s’aventurer dans ces terribles faces nord qui nécessitent non seulement d’être un excellent alpiniste capable d’évoluer sur des terrains glacés et sur rocher délité mais aussi une volonté à toute épreuve !

On peut rajouter le parcours des arêtes de la Muzelle, une nord-ouest à l’Olan et aussi des excursions dans le massif du Mont Blanc avec la face nord des Grandes Jorasses, la face nord des Droites, …

En 1939, la guerre et la mort de son camarade A. Madier à la Dibona mettent fin au projet d’expédition dans l’Himalaya qui aurait été conduite par Maurice Fourastier.

Comme beaucoup d’homme, il part au front. Démobilisé en 1940, il explore en tous sens le massif de Djurdjura en Algérie, fait nombre de premières, participe à la construction de refuges, trace des sentiers, crée des écoles d’escalade, …

1942, les troupes alliées débarquent en Algérie. Il crée avec le Général de Montsabert  les « Corps Francs d’Afrique ». Capitaine d’une compagnie de commandos de choc, il se distingue avec ses hommes en Tunisie en 43 et est cité plusieurs fois à l’ordre de l’Armée. Il débarque en Italie fin 43. Début 44, alors qu’il conduit son détachement, il est salement touché à la jambe et échappera de peu à l’amputation. A force de courage et de volonté, il remarche avec des béquilles en 1947 et miracle, en 1951, il reprend le piolet. La haute montagne ne lui permet plus l’exploit mais il réalise néanmoins encore une première à l’arête sud de la Pointe Brevoort en 1954 avec Paul Keller.

Parallèlement, il réalise un grand projet qui le tient à cœur avec la création d’une école technique professionnelle à Notre Dame d’Afrique sur les hauteurs d’Alger.

Le 19 octobre 1961, l’année de sa retraite, il parcourt avec son ami Henry Le Breton les arêtes de St Robert dans les Alpes Maritimes. On les retrouve tous les deux encordées, corps brisées au pied de la paroi. Ils seront ensevelis ensemble au cimetière de St Martin de Vésubie.

Encore aujourd’hui, ses ouvertures forcent le respect par le courage qu’il fallait pour partir à la conquête de ces faces austères. Un homme d’exception passionné d’Oisans sauvage …

Sources :
www.piedsnoirs-aujourd’hui.com
Oisans nouveau, Oisans sauvage livre ouest de JM. Cambon
Les 100 plus belles du massif des Ecrins de G. Rebuffat

Partager la publication "Maurice Fourastier"

  • Facebook
  • Twitter

163 réflexions sur « Maurice Fourastier »

  5. You are so cool! I do not think I’ve read a single thing like this before. So nice to find someone with original thoughts on this subject. Seriously.. thanks for starting this up. This website is something that is required on the web, someone with a little originality.

  10. I have to thank you for the efforts you have put in writing this blog. I really hope to check out the same high-grade blog posts by you in the future as well. In fact, your creative writing abilities has encouraged me to get my own, personal blog now 😉

  12. Right here is the perfect site for anyone who would like to understand this topic. You understand a whole lot its almost hard to argue with you (not that I really will need to…HaHa). You definitely put a brand new spin on a subject which has been written about for decades. Great stuff, just wonderful.

  13. Everything is very open with a really clear clarification of the issues. It was really informative. Your site is very helpful. Many thanks for sharing!

  16. Hi, I do think this is a great website. I stumbledupon it 😉 I am going to come back once again since I saved as a favorite it. Money and freedom is the greatest way to change, may you be rich and continue to help others.

  27. Can I simply say what a aid to seek out someone who truly knows what theyre talking about on the internet. You positively know easy methods to deliver a difficulty to mild and make it important. More folks must learn this and perceive this aspect of the story. I cant believe youre no more popular because you undoubtedly have the gift.

  33. You could certainly see your enthusiasm in the paintings you write. The sector hopes for even more passionate writers like you who are not afraid to mention how they believe. At all times follow your heart.

  34. An impressive share! I’ve just forwarded this onto a co-worker who had been doing a little homework on this. And he actually bought me breakfast because I discovered it for him… lol. So allow me to reword this…. Thanks for the meal!! But yeah, thanks for spending some time to discuss this issue here on your web site.

  38. Hi, I do believe this is an excellent site. I stumbledupon it 😉 I am going to come back once again since I book-marked it. Money and freedom is the best way to change, may you be rich and continue to help others.

  41. I’m amazed, I must say. Rarely do I come across a blog that’s both equally educative and interesting, and without a doubt, you’ve hit the nail on the head. The issue is something which not enough men and women are speaking intelligently about. Now i’m very happy that I came across this during my hunt for something regarding this.

  44. I have to thank you for the efforts you’ve put in penning this website. I am hoping to view the same high-grade blog posts from you later on as well. In fact, your creative writing abilities has motivated me to get my very own blog now 😉

  48. Nice post. I learn something totally new and challenging on sites I stumbleupon every day. It will always be helpful to read through content from other writers and use something from their websites.

  57. Oh my goodness! Awesome article dude! Thanks, However I am experiencing troubles with your RSS. I don’t know why I cannot subscribe to it. Is there anybody getting the same RSS issues? Anyone that knows the answer can you kindly respond? Thanks!!

  65. A fascinating discussion is definitely worth comment. I do think that you need to write more about this subject, it might not be a taboo matter but usually folks don’t discuss such topics. To the next! Many thanks.

  67. Spot on with this write-up, I seriously feel this amazing site needs a great deal more attention. I’ll probably be back again to read through more, thanks for the advice!

  71. Hey there! Do you know if they make any plugins to help
    with SEO? I’m trying to get my blog to rank for some targeted keywords but I’m not seeing very good results.
    If you know of any please share. Thanks! I saw similar text here:
    Blankets

  78. After checking out a handful of the articles on your web page, I seriously like your technique of blogging. I saved as a favorite it to my bookmark website list and will be checking back in the near future. Please visit my web site as well and tell me what you think.

  90. Hello there! This article could not be written much better! Reading through this article reminds me of my previous roommate! He continually kept talking about this. I am going to forward this article to him. Pretty sure he’ll have a very good read. Thanks for sharing!

  95. Having read this I thought it was very enlightening. I appreciate you taking the time and effort to put this content together. I once again find myself personally spending way too much time both reading and commenting. But so what, it was still worthwhile!

  96. A motivating discussion is worth comment. I do think that you ought to publish more about this topic, it may not be a taboo matter but usually people do not speak about such subjects. To the next! All the best.

  99. Spot on with this write-up, I truly feel this amazing site needs far more attention. I’ll probably be back again to see more, thanks for the information!

  100. As somebody who’s always been cautious regarding my
    blood glucose, locating Sugar Defender has been an alleviation.
    I feel so much a lot more in control, and my current exams
    have revealed favorable renovations. Recognizing I have a reliable supplement to sustain my regular provides me comfort.
    I’m so grateful for Sugar Defender’s influence on my wellness!

  101. For years, I have actually battled unforeseeable blood
    glucose swings that left me feeling drained and lethargic.
    But considering that incorporating Sugar Defender into my routine, I’ve noticed a considerable improvement in my overall
    power and stability. The feared mid-day thing of the past,
    and I value that this natural remedy achieves these outcomes without any undesirable or damaging
    reactions. truthfully been a transformative exploration for me.

  102. As a person that’s constantly been cautious about my blood sugar level,
    finding Sugar Defender has actually been an alleviation. I feel so much more in control, and my current check-ups have revealed positive enhancements.
    Knowing I have a reliable supplement to support my routine gives me comfort.
    I’m so grateful for Sugar Protector’s influence
    on my health and wellness!

  103. Including Sugar Protector into my everyday
    routine has actually been a game-changer for my overall
    health. As somebody that already prioritizes healthy and balanced consuming, this supplement has given an included increase of defense.
    in my energy degrees, and my wish for unhealthy snacks so simple and easy can have such a profound influence
    on my daily life.

  106. I was more than happy to find this web site. I wanted to thank you for your time due to this fantastic read!! I definitely liked every little bit of it and I have you saved as a favorite to check out new stuff on your site.

  112. May I simply just say what a relief to discover a person that really knows what they’re talking about on the web. You definitely know how to bring a problem to light and make it important. A lot more people should check this out and understand this side of the story. It’s surprising you are not more popular since you certainly possess the gift.

  114. Having read this I thought it was rather informative. I appreciate you finding the time and energy to put this informative article together. I once again find myself personally spending a lot of time both reading and leaving comments. But so what, it was still worth it!

  117. The next time I read a blog, Hopefully it does not disappoint me just as much as this particular one. I mean, Yes, it was my choice to read, nonetheless I truly believed you would probably have something useful to talk about. All I hear is a bunch of moaning about something that you could fix if you weren’t too busy searching for attention.

  118. Next time I read a blog, Hopefully it doesn’t fail me as much as this particular one. After all, Yes, it was my choice to read, nonetheless I really believed you would probably have something useful to say. All I hear is a bunch of complaining about something that you could fix if you were not too busy looking for attention.

  122. Your style is unique compared to other folks I have read stuff from. I appreciate you for posting when you have the opportunity, Guess I will just book mark this page.

  123. I’d like to thank you for the efforts you’ve put in penning this blog. I really hope to see the same high-grade blog posts by you later on as well. In fact, your creative writing abilities has motivated me to get my own website now 😉

  125. Good day! I could have sworn I’ve been to this web site before but after going through a few of the posts I realized it’s new to me. Regardless, I’m certainly delighted I discovered it and I’ll be book-marking it and checking back regularly!

  128. You have made some decent points there. I looked on the web to learn more about the issue and found most people will go along with your views on this website.

  129. You have made some really good points there. I looked on the net to find out more about the issue and found most individuals will go along with your views on this site.

  130. I’ve been exploring for a little for any high quality articles or blog posts on this kind of house . Exploring in Yahoo I ultimately stumbled upon this web site. Studying this info So i am happy to express that I’ve an incredibly good uncanny feeling I came upon just what I needed. I such a lot without a doubt will make sure to don’t disregard this web site and provides it a look regularly.

  136. Can I simply just say what a relief to uncover somebody that truly understands what they’re talking about over the internet. You certainly realize how to bring a problem to light and make it important. More people need to look at this and understand this side of your story. It’s surprising you’re not more popular given that you certainly have the gift.

  138. I blog often and I seriously appreciate your content. This article has really peaked my interest. I will bookmark your site and keep checking for new information about once per week. I subscribed to your RSS feed too.

  142. May I just say what a relief to discover someone that genuinely understands what they’re discussing over the internet. You actually realize how to bring a problem to light and make it important. More people must read this and understand this side of the story. I was surprised you’re not more popular since you most certainly possess the gift.

  143. Oh my goodness! Incredible article dude! Thanks, However I am having problems with your RSS. I don’t know the reason why I cannot join it. Is there anybody having identical RSS issues? Anybody who knows the solution can you kindly respond? Thanks.

  149. I truly love your site.. Very nice colors & theme. Did you develop this web site yourself? Please reply back as I’m trying to create my very own website and would like to know where you got this from or exactly what the theme is named. Kudos!

  150. Aw, this was a really nice post. Taking the time and actual effort to produce a great article… but what can I say… I put things off a whole lot and never seem to get nearly anything done.

  153. You’re so awesome! I don’t think I have read a single thing like this before. So great to discover another person with a few unique thoughts on this topic. Really.. thank you for starting this up. This site is something that is needed on the internet, someone with a little originality.

  155. Everything is very open with a very clear clarification of the challenges. It was truly informative. Your site is very helpful. Many thanks for sharing.

  159. Hi there, just became aware of your blog through Google, and found
    that it’s truly informative. I am gonna watch out for brussels.
    I’ll appreciate if you continue this in future.
    Numerous people will be benefited from your writing. Cheers!
    Lista escape roomów

  160. eos recusandae eius voluptatem sed facere rerum ullam minus officiis molestias consectetur impedit dolores amet ad molestiae. consequatur similique nostrum labore. facere provident aut earum repellendus ut quasi voluptas ut qui enim iure esse eum ipsum et laudantium et est qui. perspiciatis qui non sed officiis ut. consequuntur velit beatae accusamus fugiat libero suscipit asperiores sit pariatur distinctio dolorum delectus doloribus.

  163. bonjour je suis la fille de Roger Breton qui a beaucoup grimpé, exploré les Djujura avec Fourastier . Avez vous des informations ou publications à me conseiller ?
    merci d’avance
    0638409984

Laisser un commentaire

Votre adresse e-mail ne sera pas publiée. Les champs obligatoires sont indiqués avec *